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Tasha Could Make That

Tasha Could Make That

Vintage knitting, sewing, and a lifetime of craftiness

Bye Bye Birdie blouse

October 11, 2016 by Tasha 17 Comments

What’s blue and tan with birdcages all over? My blouse!

Bye Bye Birdie blouse

And it’s another Vintage Pledge item! Sometimes, I really love the terms used to describe various elements of a garment in vintage sewing patterns. Today’s treat was Butterick 6223, a pattern from the 1950s, featuring a “small rising collar” for the view I sewed.

Butterick 6223 (1950s)

It’s a perfect description—says exactly what it is!

Bye Bye Birdie blouse

This is actually a blouse I’ve sewn up twice before, last fall. Before we went to London and Paris last October, I sewed a wearable muslin of it, intending to then make a final version to wear on Halloween, when meeting up with some of my favorite sewing pals. Recognize these two??

in London with Roisin and Jane

I don’t think I ever posted photos from out trip, but I did make the Halloween blouse in time, and I’m wearing it in the photo above, with Roisin and Jane! ♥ ♥

I wanted more versions of that blouse since making it up, as I’ve worn the first version quite a lot in spring and fall (it’s a cute umbrella print) and just pulled out the Halloweeny one for this season (it’s the lilac Haunted Forest print from Cotton + Steel). However, when I approached the pattern recently, I remembered an issue I had with the first two: the upper back was kind of weirdly blousy. I worked on it a bit after my first version, tweaking the pattern slightly for the Halloween version which helped, but didn’t resolve it.

But this go around, I knew something I didn’t know last fall: that I’d hit on the secret to this issue when sewing up my checked dress earlier in the year. The puffy back was a result of the bodice being too long! And to test if this worked on the blouse too, I pinned about a 1.5″ fold at the waistline of the blouse, tried it back on, and was treated with a much better upper back. So I transferred that to the pattern before sewing up this version, and that issue is now solved. Huzzah! My theory continues to pay off!

Bye Bye Birdie blouse

There’s a center back seam to this pattern, otherwise with the three-quarter cut-on sleeves you can’t fit it on 45″ of fabric (and certainly not the more typically 36″ wide common when this pattern was made). It’s not 100% but I did do a pretty good job matching up the seam! But it was kind of a yardage-eater to do so, so likely I’ll go back to not giving a flying fig about it next time.

The fabric is a cute birdcage print by Japanese manufacturer Lecien that I’ve had stashed awhile. It’s a weight that’s just a bit lighter than quilting cotton to me. The two previous versions I made with quilting cotton and since the bodice is fitted and not too fussy, it works nicely and it’s not uncomfortable at all, and a nice way to showcase a silly novelty print. You can’t see it, but there are 3 elbow darts on the sleeves, which is the only thing I need to change going forward as they’re a tad too low on me. I narrowed the sleeves a bit, which I may or may not do next time, depending on what I feel like.

Washington, D.C. vintage charm bracelet

I just can’t get enough of this collar though. It’s really simple to make, unlike wing collars. I interfaced the facing with lightweight fusible (this one’s my favorite), which gives just the right amount of crispness. It really does just stand up slightly perky. I love it!

That being said I totally want to make the scoop neck view of this pattern, too. I have two vintage blouses with that shape and love them (actually both have appeared on my blog—a black velvet one and a cotton print one). Although the cotton one is too wide for my shoulders really, so I can make a better fitting version!

Bye Bye Birdie blouse

I’m wearing this blouse with a pair of cigarette pants that was a bit of an experiment, but a very successful one. I’m always trying to chase the perfect fitting leg on my cigarette pants. Not too many wrinkles under my butt or anywhere else, comfortable, but fairly fitted. But it’s kind of an elusive fit, because each fabric is different and I don’t always want the same fit, anyway! In winter I want more room so I can fit tights or long underwear underneath without feeling strangled, in summer I sometimes want more fitted, but sometimes not so much because it’s really hot… you get the picture.

But this pair, my experiment was Frankensteining two patterns together. From the waist to crotch it’s my staple Butterick B5895 cigarette pants pattern (seen most recently as cat capris), and below the crotch curve it’s the leg from the Safran jeans pattern. I also used the grain line from Safran, figuring that the legs were the majority of the pattern and where I really wanted the grain correct, versus the crotch and hips. Not exactly a scientific method, but what I did nonetheless. 🙂 I wanted to try it because I really liked the leg of my Safran jeans and basically thought, what the hell! Why not.

Bye Bye Birdie blouse and cigarette pants

And boy, I’m really pleased with this particular pair! I love the fit! It’s a deep blue stretch cotton sateen with a light sheen… I think I bought it from Mood ages ago. And I did a lapped side zip. They were a bit on the tight side when I first tried them on (especially in the hips, which had to get taken in a bit to merge with the Safran legs), but after a bit they loosened up just enough so that I definitely think I’ll repeat this particular experiment in the future. I also took a small wedge out the center back for a sway back adjustment, which dips the waistband down a bit, but means that even after a few wears I’m not getting my often-typical fabric pooling at the base of my back. Huzzah!

I may finally be at a point where I can repeat this without tracing off the pattern and making yet another tweak… I’m not sure I’ve done that yet, even after umpteen pairs. Ha ha!

Next up: black sateen for sure!

Bye Bye Birdie blouse and cigarette pants

All in all I love this outfit and don’t be surprised to see this as one of my “uniforms” the rest of this year and into next: a comfy and vintage cut-on sleeve 50s blouse and cigarette pants. I’ve just been so into variations on this look lately.

Now, my kingdom for some stretch wool bottomweights! And stretch corduroys! And heavier sateens! C’mon fabric shops, I wanna get sewin’ for warm legs!!

Bye Bye Birdie blouse and cigarette pants

outfit details

1950s blouse – made by me
cigarette pants – made by me
vintage enamel and copper earrings – Etsy
Washington D.C. charm bracelet – misc.
shoes – Dr. Scholl’s Really flats

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Filed Under: Sewing, Vintage Wardrobe Tagged With: butterick, finished projects, outfits, vintage pledge, vintage sewing patterns

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Dawn says

    October 11, 2016 at 10:16 am

    This outfit is amazing!!!! That blouse… perfect! Those pants… PERFECT! You really make me want to recommit to getting my sewing to fit perfectly and not just be satisfied with “good enough” out of the envelope!

    Reply
  2. Tami Von Zalez says

    October 11, 2016 at 10:30 am

    Sooo cute – the top is adorable. Your whole ensemble of the specs, the hair and the wall of souvenir plates! Just love!!!!

    Reply
  3. Chris says

    October 11, 2016 at 11:29 am

    I love that your earrings look like they could hang on the wall of plates behind you! Great blouse – and pants.

    Reply
  4. Holli says

    October 11, 2016 at 12:34 pm

    ooh, that DC souvenir bracelet! Where’d you get it? I’m a DC native and I always love finding vintage souvenir stuff from here– I just got a locket with the Capitol on it that I need to find a chain for.

    (actually, I also have a space DC souvenir plate, if you don’t have one already.)

    Reply
  5. Evie says

    October 11, 2016 at 12:37 pm

    I adore this whole outfit! Really nice job.

    Reply
  6. Carlee says

    October 11, 2016 at 1:51 pm

    I know you really shouldn’t use this fabric for fiddly garments but can you IMAGINE those pants in a rich red or emerald velvet?! I am salivating just thinking about it. Anywhoo I love the top and the pants! Very inspiring! Makes me want to blow off my school work and sit at my machine 🙂

    Reply
  7. Porcelina says

    October 11, 2016 at 3:32 pm

    Such a chic outfit, very impressive and inspirational work.

    Reply
  8. Cherie says

    October 11, 2016 at 9:53 pm

    Love your blouse, the collar is soooo good! The pants fit really well! All in all, what a great outfit!

    Reply
  9. Kathy says

    October 11, 2016 at 9:58 pm

    You do get me into trouble. I found the blouse pattern on ETSY and bought it just for the collar. Shame on you for cuteness and good taste.

    Reply
  10. Nicole says

    October 11, 2016 at 11:13 pm

    Love this outfit! The pieces go so well together, and I can see how this could easily become your go to uniform!
    The Artyologist

    Reply
  11. Lynn says

    October 13, 2016 at 10:41 am

    I love it! I have some of that exact fabric but mine is going into a quilt.

    Reply
  12. Cindy says

    October 14, 2016 at 2:15 pm

    Everything about this outfit is perfection! Bravo on the pants fitting!

    Reply
  13. bella lauren says

    October 17, 2016 at 1:33 am

    I love this outfits,your tops looks adorable.I always love finding vintage stuff .Have a look at my collection http://paperdollz.co.uk/

    Reply
  14. Tania says

    December 8, 2016 at 12:16 am

    I am trying to do my toile of this pattern, I have to make it quite a bit bigger. It fits but I too have that blousy upper back. Bingo, your post has I hoped solved it and I thought I was going to have to start all over again. I knew that if i checked your post it would help.
    As always thanks so much.

    Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Black cats on parade! | By Gum, By Golly says:
    October 31, 2016 at 10:26 am

    […] Halloween and sewed myself a theme-y blouse for the occasion. I used the same pattern as my recent Bye Bye Birdie blouse, and this year, I’ve used the pattern again! What can I say, I really love this pattern. […]

    Reply
  2. Plaid flannel dress | By Gum, By Golly says:
    July 11, 2019 at 3:47 am

    […] collar much like the collar in a blouse pattern I’ve used several times (a couple of versions here and here), but it doesn’t stand up […]

    Reply
  3. Meet me in Washington, D.C. over the holidays! | By Gum, By Golly says:
    June 13, 2021 at 2:29 pm

    […] of a vintage pattern I’ve now sewn several times. I think the last one I shared was my birdie blouse, but it’s also been made up for Halloween, too, Butterick 6223 from the […]

    Reply

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