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Tasha Could Make That

Tasha Could Make That

Vintage knitting, sewing, and a lifetime of craftiness

Special birthday dress for London

April 10, 2017 by Tasha 66 Comments

Today is my birthday! So I sewed a dress!

I’m the ripe YOUNG age of 40!

And, I’m in London!

Um, not in these photos, obviously. We’re actually on vacation right now and I took these ahead of time, since we weren’t planning to travel with a laptop and I thought trying to do a blog post on my phone on my birthday sounded like a drag. So you get a scheduled post instead. 🙂

Each year for the last handful of years, I’ve sewn a dress for my birthday (last year’s was my sweetheart cowboy dress). This year, I knew I wanted to make the dress a little bit more special, because of our trip. And I’ll hopefully be posting photos of me wearing this today on my Instagram, so keep your eyes peeled if you follow me there!

Before I get into this dress, let me pause for a second to say these are the first photos I’ve taken in my sewing area! It’s definitely not the best—I mean, this is a basement, folks. Lighting is whatever natural light comes in two windows, and then mostly fluorescents above me. And it’s a pretty busy background to boot (in fact I moved one of my bins around halfway through the photos, ha ha).

But hey, I love the space and the dress just seemed to fit in, so I went with it. I promise eventually I’ll show off the space properly once I consider it more “done”. It’s getting there.

Right, back to the dress! I picked a vintage pattern I’d never made as a dress, but I’d made it into a skirt, McCall’s 3528. I wanted to use this gorgeous cotton sateen border print from the Gertie by Gretchen Hirsch line of fabric at JoAnn’s. I think this print is from last year. It actually has two borders which is wonderful, as it means you can play with them in different ways! I knew right off I wanted to use the narrower rose border on the bodice neckline, but that meant cutting the bodice on the bias.

Not such a big deal, right? As I mentioned I’ve sewn the skirt from this pattern before, my Doctor Who skirt. It’s literally 4 yards, pleated and gathered. The sateen isn’t quite as stable as a firm medium weight cotton, and it’s a bit drapier and slightly thinner. The idea of that skirt hanging from a bias-cut bodice sent chills down my spine, picturing it streeeetching out of shape slowly but surely. Not on my watch.

I knew I was going to line the bodice, but I wasn’t sure if even cutting that on-grain, would it be stable enough? Because the skirt is still only sewn to the bodice, and then the lining hand stitched at the waist seam, so it provides some stability but I didn’t think enough to hold up 4 yards of fabric. Even if I used a waist stay I just worried about the bodice supporting the skirt. I mean damn, that’s a lot of skirt.

A loooot of skirt!

I hemmed and hawed for awhile and finally decided to underline the bodice with cotton batiste, but with the underlining cut on-grain, effectively removing the bias aspect from the bodice. Sometimes you cut on the bias to take advantage of the bias, but in this case it was to take advantage of the print only (in fact I did my muslin with the fabric on-grain too). I figured this was a good move, if unconventional. Then I decided to still line it because that was my intention from the get-go (the fabric is just slightly sheer), so I’d already drafted the cut-on facing out of the bodice pattern pieces, and frankly I wanted to do it still because I’m stubborn, that’s why.

So to get all this bodice precaution situated, first I used fusible stay tape on both the v-neck front and back neckline and center back where the zipper went, all on the main fashion fabric. Then I stay stitched every single seam on the bodice front and back, again on the main fashion fabric. Then I hand basted the underlining to the bodice pieces so I didn’t stretch them out at all. I laid the bodice pieces on the batiste, basted by hand, and then cut the underlining out. On the left below is a piece being underlined, on the right a piece that was already underlined and cut out.

And then I basted through the inside legs of each dart so I’d make those nice and precise. It helps a lot!

All told, a lot of prep work. Phew. And I don’t know, maybe somewhat unnecessary? But whatever, I did it anyway. Next time if I wanted the bodice on the bias again, I’d probably just underline it on-grain and use facings and call it a day.

But since it’s still this time and not next time, then I lined the bodice with the same cotton batiste as I underlined with, which is a bit thinner than I’d usually go for a bodice lining but I didn’t want to add more bulk. You can juuuust barely see it in the photo below but I did something a little tricksy for the sleeves: I sewed the sleeve hem along with the batiste, understitched and turned up the batiste (so wrong sides facing), then set the sleeve in with the batiste and fashion fabric treated as one. So kinda underlined, kinda lined? When you’re calling the shots, you can do whatever you want!

Overall, I’m pleased with how that all turned out although it was quite a chore for the final look. In the end, the only fitting complaints really are minor: the center front darts that I already lowered could be even lower, and the bodice could fit a bit better around the armholes compared to how I think I remember it fitting in the muslin. But whatever, I’m chalking that one up to all the hooha I went through on the bodice, 3 layers of fabric and the fact that at the last second I had to take the center front seam in 1/4″ from the top to a few inches away from the waist because of an errant leaf that was stupidly placed. And it still fits way better than most RTW anyway.

Other details? I did a centered zipper in the back. I never do invisible zippers, and thought a lapped one would look strange because of the V neckline, and I didn’t want to do a side zipper like the original pattern. I do like a good centered zipper, too.

I added side seam pockets! It’s a weird thing, me and pockets. For ages I put them in all my dresses, and then I just stopped because I rarely used them. For some reason though this year I’m all into adding them to dresses again, and I’ve sewn 3 dresses this spring (oops, this is the 3rd sewn but the 1st I’m sharing) and all have pockets. Pocketsesssss.

And I went all out and also made a matching belt! That’s something I rarely bother doing. Like, almost never. I used a vintage buckle in my stash and 1″ belting that I fortunately had on hand too, since making a belt was something I decided on after I’d already started the project.

I used damn near every inch of 4 yards of fabric to create this dress and had literally JUST enough of the narrow rose border print for the belt. I absolutely love how it breaks up the polka dots and ties everything together! It’s just the perfect finishing touch on this dress!

So, as you read this, I’m probably wearing this dress right now frolicking around London shopping and having a luxurious champagne afternoon tea. What better way to spend my birthday?!!

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Filed Under: Sewing, Vintage Wardrobe Tagged With: birthdays, dresses, finished projects, outfits, vintage pledge

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Anna says

    April 10, 2017 at 6:38 am

    What a gorgeous dress!! I love the idea of making a dress every birthday.

    Reply
    • Victoria says

      September 10, 2024 at 12:19 pm

      ☺️😉Beautiful dress!!! I love this roses. Thanks for share.🤩👍

      Reply
  2. Kim W (courtlykim) says

    April 10, 2017 at 8:45 am

    This dress makes me wish I could wear yellow!. Way cute!
    Kim

    Reply
  3. Helen Mae says

    April 10, 2017 at 9:25 am

    Your dress turned out great! Happy birthday x

    Reply
  4. Ladyfair says

    April 10, 2017 at 9:40 am

    Awesome! I fear bias cut projects, especially with slippy materials. Good call on underlining with something stable. It looks so spring like and happy.

    Reply
  5. Tanya says

    April 10, 2017 at 9:54 am

    That is such a beautiful dress! Perfect for a special birthday! I hope you’re enjoying your day!

    Reply
  6. Emma says

    April 10, 2017 at 10:09 am

    That is STUNNING! And happy birthday! x

    Reply
  7. Charlotte says

    April 10, 2017 at 10:38 am

    squeeeeee! It’s so gorgeous!

    Reply
  8. Tiffany Allen says

    April 10, 2017 at 10:40 am

    Happy Birthday young lady! I’m older than you so I can say that ? You look beautiful in this color and I love how the dress turned out, the belt makes it perfect. And your sewing area is great. I’m very envious ?

    Reply
  9. Caroline Gilham says

    April 10, 2017 at 10:59 am

    Happy Birthday and what a fantastic, simply gorgeous dress. Simply love the border print fabric. The end result is definitely worth all the preparation. Well done.

    Reply
  10. Moe says

    April 10, 2017 at 11:06 am

    Absolutely stellar!! It looks lovely on you and is the perfect t dress for Sketch. Happy birthday!

    Reply
  11. Porcelina says

    April 10, 2017 at 11:20 am

    That’s a beauty of a dress! Enjoy your celebrations x

    Reply
  12. Fijo says

    April 10, 2017 at 12:06 pm

    Such a beautiful dress – had to leave a comment!

    Reply
  13. Fijo says

    April 10, 2017 at 12:07 pm

    Such a beautiful dress – just had to leave a comment!

    Reply
  14. matkailijakirppu says

    April 10, 2017 at 12:15 pm

    Birthday congrats! 🙂 And lovely dress; the placement of the flowers on this dress great!

    Reply
  15. Kirstin says

    April 10, 2017 at 12:29 pm

    Happy Birthday! That dress is gorgeous – as are all your creations! Enjoy London and your birthday.

    Reply
  16. Raesha says

    April 10, 2017 at 12:56 pm

    Happy happy birthday!!!! The dress is so beautiful!!!!

    Reply
  17. jeanine says

    April 10, 2017 at 1:48 pm

    SWOOOOON! Happy berfday! The dress is amazebulbs! Hope you are having a swell time…

    Reply
  18. Sabine says

    April 10, 2017 at 2:07 pm

    Happy birthday to you and have a great time in London! (I’m also facing the 40 this year and it already seems less scary than last year 😉 )

    This dress is really gorgeous and you’re looking so perfectly happy in it. I just started sewing and your projects are very inspiring. It sooo nice sharing it to others, thanks a lot. And I’m very curious how your „new“ sewing space looks like – seen from the dress photos, it already looks very promising and well organized.

    Reply
  19. Miss Kitty Heart says

    April 10, 2017 at 2:33 pm

    Have a wonderful and happy birthday!

    That dress is just absolutely gorgeous! I’ve been thinking about sewing my own skirts and dresses for a while now but it still scares me so much. I’m not such a hero with a sewing machine (yet!) but you are so inspiring and I’m going to have to take the plunge at some time.

    Reply
  20. Gonniemarie says

    April 10, 2017 at 2:50 pm

    Happy 40th Birthday and a great holiday in London! What a wonderful dress you’ve made, hope you can wear it a lot in the UK! Are you going to visit a Cath Kidstone store? The fabric of this dress reminds me a bit of that gordious brand. I think green heels would also look awesome with this dress.
    Your hair is looking great as well 😉

    Reply
  21. Kathryn says

    April 10, 2017 at 3:31 pm

    Happy birthday! What a gorgeous dress!! I just love the fabric you’ve used and it looks so good on you. I hope you’re enjoying your visit to the U.K.!

    Reply
  22. retro rover says

    April 10, 2017 at 3:41 pm

    happy birthday beautiful dress

    Reply
  23. Black Tulip says

    April 10, 2017 at 5:48 pm

    Lovely dress, and I hope you had a fabulous birthday!

    Reply
  24. Danceaholic80 says

    April 10, 2017 at 6:37 pm

    Gorgeous!
    Don’t know if this was deliberate, but I LOVE how the leaf on the LH bodice matches up with your tattoo!! Very tricky 🙂

    Reply
  25. Kate says

    April 10, 2017 at 7:06 pm

    This is just lovely. Happy birthday! 🙂

    Reply
  26. Jessica says

    April 10, 2017 at 7:10 pm

    Happy birthday! This dress is absolutely lovely, perfectly suited to a nice trip to London. I hope you have a wonderful time!

    Reply
  27. Donnalee says

    April 10, 2017 at 7:25 pm

    Happy birthday to you! Enjoy!

    Your attention to detail always seems to pay off in these gorgeous, original creations–how smart to think in advance about possible heavy skirt and other avoidable pitfalls and then to avoid them. I love the colour and design, like the most charming tablecloth or teacup in a very good way! ahaha!

    Reply
  28. colette says

    April 10, 2017 at 7:40 pm

    Wonderful use of the fabric – happy birthday!

    Reply
  29. Jen says

    April 10, 2017 at 9:06 pm

    Such a beautiful dress! Happy Birthday <3

    Reply
  30. Nicole says

    April 10, 2017 at 10:44 pm

    I absolutely love how you did this with the border print and belt! Bravo for a job well done, and Happy Birthday too, by the way 🙂
    The Artyologist

    Reply
  31. Carla says

    April 10, 2017 at 11:27 pm

    Your dress turned out AMAZING, Tasha! And Happy Happy Birthday! I hope you had an amazing day! I need to get the ball rolling on a Birthday dress for myself!

    Carla, Tiny Angry Crafts

    Reply
  32. Bettysue says

    April 11, 2017 at 3:08 am

    Beautiful dress, perfect pattern and use of the material. Happy 40th.

    Reply
  33. Chris says

    April 11, 2017 at 12:20 pm

    The dress is gorgeous – what a wonderful use of the print! Happy Birthday – enjoy London!!!

    Reply
  34. Natalie says

    April 11, 2017 at 5:18 pm

    What a great dress! Happy Birthday. Love the action shot with the twirl. Too cute. 🙂

    Hope you’re having an absolute blast in London!

    Cheers,
    Natalie

    Reply
  35. Janneke says

    April 12, 2017 at 1:49 am

    What a wonderful dress! Love the way it turned out with the roses around the neckline 🙂 Have an awesome birthday!

    Reply
  36. Katie Writes Stuff says

    April 12, 2017 at 6:14 am

    It looks amazing! I love the way you’ve used the border prints and I imagine you’ll receive all manner of compliments about your gorgeous dress. Thanks for the tip about basting the darts – I’m starting to obsess over getting my darts just right and I think that’s a fantastic idea.

    Reply
  37. Lizzie Violet says

    April 12, 2017 at 8:28 am

    Stunning!

    Reply
  38. Cyd says

    April 12, 2017 at 6:58 pm

    I’m not usually a fan of vintage, but somehow I came across your site and started looking through it. You are one extremely talented lady!! Absolutely incredible sewing and knitting projects. I love your unique look!

    Reply
  39. Natasha says

    April 14, 2017 at 7:49 am

    Stunning and I always love how you guide people through how you made it. I always pick up so many good tips from you. Hope you had a fab time in London and on your holiday. I’m currently planning my own 40th birthday trip away, I might steal your idea and make myself a birthday dress seeing as it’s 40!

    Reply
  40. Cyd says

    April 14, 2017 at 8:42 am

    P.S. My “non-vintage” self would absolutely wear this dress! It’s beautiful ❤️

    Reply
  41. Tamie says

    April 14, 2017 at 6:50 pm

    Happy Birthday! Thanks for the post! I always enjoy reading what you’ve written, and the pictures are great!

    Reply
  42. Bane says

    April 16, 2017 at 2:02 am

    Oooh, so pretty! Excellent use of the border fabric, and the belt finishes the look perfectly. Happy 40th! I hope you’re having a wonderful time in London.

    Reply
  43. mary says

    April 16, 2017 at 7:30 pm

    Happy birthday! Your new dress is beautiful. I admire your fitting skills! Looking forward to hearing about your London trip!

    Reply
  44. Hélène Martin says

    April 16, 2017 at 9:12 pm

    Happy birthday! What a totally stunning dress. The use of the border print, especially for the belt, is brilliant!

    Reply
  45. Jessy says

    April 18, 2017 at 3:06 pm

    This dress is amazing and you look absolutely radiant in it! Also, I see I’m not the first to mention it but I really appreciate how the leaf print matches up with your tattoo! To die for.

    Reply
  46. Jessyf says

    April 18, 2017 at 3:06 pm

    This dress is amazing and you look absolutely radiant in it! Also, I see I’m not the first to mention it but I really appreciate how the leaf print matches up with your tattoo! To die for.

    Reply
  47. Jenn says

    April 19, 2017 at 5:12 pm

    Happy belated! Hope you had a fabulous time (or are having!) Adorable dress!

    Reply
  48. ange says

    April 20, 2017 at 5:30 pm

    That dress is so beautiful!

    Reply
  49. Janey says

    April 25, 2017 at 8:19 pm

    Happy Birthday!!

    And this dress! Oh my goodness!! It’s too fabulous for words! I love yellow and pink together, and this is just darling!

    xoxo
    -Janey

    Reply
  50. Lynneferd says

    April 28, 2017 at 5:11 pm

    Do love! The belt was inspirational! It really sets the dress off well. You couldn’t have chosen a better print and pattern for your birthday dress. Have a wonderful time in London!

    Reply
  51. Nancy says

    May 16, 2017 at 5:37 am

    Absolutely lovely! I’m such a sucker for yellow but, alas, it does not love me back. You look gorgeous! Happy belated, I hope it was a good one. 🙂

    Reply
  52. Hannah says

    May 17, 2017 at 1:52 am

    Hey Belated birthday wishes to you.. This looks really a birthday dress. Planning to sew this for me and will love to wear on my birthday, i will be turning 38 :). I would be making quarter sleeves as i am crazy for the sleeves dresses, may be because i am very thin. and you know your hairstyle is perfectly going with your dress. I have a long hair, but really want to try this dress with hair cut just like yours.. Thank you so much for sharing this.. I am working on my knitting projects and this floral dress will be the next project i will work on..

    Reply
  53. Elle says

    June 4, 2017 at 5:18 pm

    Happy belated birthday! I’ll bet that Gretchen is very impressed by what you did with her fabric. Marvellous!

    Reply
  54. Berenice says

    June 10, 2017 at 11:16 am

    I have my Mom’s original pattern of that dress. I showed her your post and she loved it. She is also an April baby! She made hers 2 dresses from that pattern in a seersucker fabric. She wore a blue one to a school dance.

    Reply
  55. April Ball says

    July 30, 2017 at 4:40 pm

    Hey, just found your website and couldn’t not comment on that dress! IT IS GORGEOUS! Happy belated birthday to you!

    Reply
  56. Michelle says

    December 28, 2017 at 10:26 am

    Happy Blated birthday..I lov this dress and your website…thank u 4 sharing…I lov vintage things

    Reply
  57. Nora McGrann says

    February 2, 2018 at 12:18 pm

    JUST CAME ACROSS YOUR BLOG AND REALLY REALLY ENJOYED IT!!

    YOUR POLKA DOT DRESS IS TO DIE FOR..I WOULD LOVE FABRIC LIKE THAT BUT NEVER SEEM TO COME ACROSS ONE WITH A BORDER LIKE YOURS, OR ELSE THEY COST A SMALL FORTUNE..

    AS I AM NOT AN ACCOMPLISHED SEWER, I WOULDN’T BE ABLE TO AFFORD THE HIGH COST, ONLY PERHAPS TO RUIN IT!!

    KEEP YOUR PROJECTS COMING….GOOD LUCK

    NORA

    Reply
  58. Kathy says

    March 26, 2018 at 8:34 pm

    Its GORGEOUS!!!!

    Reply
  59. Alicia says

    April 10, 2018 at 3:05 pm

    My first big sewing project was in high school out of that pattern, out of a copy my grandmother had that I found after she passed away. It’s in a much too garish blue, and not really a style I wear in my everyday life, and it took me an entire summer to make, but I’m so glad I did. My grandmother was very talented, and probably made the dress for one of her sisters. Your dress looks gorgeous!

    Reply
  60. S. Carley says

    May 29, 2017 at 8:59 pm

    Love the dress & admire the skill you have in putting it together. I’ve been using patterns from the 50s & 60s for blouses & pants, which are now back in style !! Don’t get rid of patterns.

    Reply

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