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Tasha Could Make That

Tasha Could Make That

Vintage knitting, sewing, and a lifetime of craftiness

My lovely stranded cardigan!

November 28, 2011 by Tasha 51 Comments

Hi everyone, I’m back home! I have massive catching up to do on my feed reader. My, how everyone’s been posting like a maniac!

We had a lovely, albeit somewhat brief, trip to my mom’s outside of Washington, D.C. I’m sorry I didn’t get to meet up with any D.C. bloggers, however with Thanksgiving and a family party, and my best friend from college visiting too for part of the trip, time was very limited.

Just before we left for our trip, I finished up my latest sweater! I’m over the moon about it. The pattern is Bestway B2637, called Fair Isle Cardigan. You can purchase the .pdf here, and find it on Ravelry here. I don’t have an exact date, but the pattern is from the 1940s.

You can see I didn’t stray very far from the original pattern colors. I liked the color scheme so well I didn’t see a need to go in a different direction. Lately I’ve been more inclined to do that with vintage colorwork patterns, because I like the original so much.

While I kept the color scheme about the same, I made a few other changes. The first change was gauge. The pattern was knit at 9 stitches per inch in fingering weight yarn. As someone who loves vintage styles, I knit a lot with fingering weight. However 9 stitches an inch is generally a bit more dense than I like to knit sweaters. I prefer to knit fingering weight on somewhere between 7 to 8 stitches per inch for a sweater, obviously depending upon the yarn and pattern. So this pattern I knit at 7.5 spi, though in the end I blocked it closer to 7 spi.

Changing the gauge as I did, I also had to tweak the sizing a bit. The final width around the bust is 1″ larger than my full bust. While it looks like there is shaping to the body, there isn’t. The ribbing is knit on about 10% fewer stitches than the body, then in the first body row I increased to the full number of stitches that was knit with all the way up to the bust.

(Oh yes, here’s the new haircut too! Only this isn’t representative of how it looks after a fresh set, but is how it looks the day after if I don’t put rollers back in at night, except for my bangs. So they are much softer curls.)

The complicating factor about changing the sizing of an allover colorwork pattern is making sure the colorwork lines up the way you’d like it to. That took a little bit of doing. I started by charting out the pattern, so I knew it was 16 stitches across for one pattern repeat. I decided where I wanted the center stitch across the back to be, and worked around to the front from there.

I knit this with a combination of yarns. Mostly St-Denis Boreale, with a bit of Jamieson’s Shetland Spindrift and KnitPicks Palette. I knew the Shetland yarn was stickier than the other two, but it was just the right gold I was looking for and all the yarns played well together.

Because I changed the sizing in the pattern, I had to change the sleeve cap. I wanted the rows of the pattern to match up from the sleeve to the shoulder, so I had to make sure the sleeve cap was two things: 1) exactly the same number of rows as the upper body of the sweater (from armhole to shoulder shaping), and 2) started at exactly the same row on the chart as on the body after the armholes. The excess ease could not be worked in along the pattern, otherwise it would throw off the row-to-row seaming. So I gathered the sleeve caps at the top when setting in the sleeves, which I did with mattress stitch.

The chart doesn’t flow from the sleeve to the body (even I’m not that anal!), but the rows line up quite nicely. The gathered cap works great with this style, too.

This project was steeked. A steek is a bridge of extra stitches knit where you would like an opening to be. You later cut through the steek, leaving the opening. One major benefit of steeks when used in stranded knitting is not having to slow down to purl in a stranded pattern, as well as being able to cut away all loose ends so you don’t have to weave them in.

In the body of this sweater, the front of the cardigan and the armholes were steeked. I also knit the two sleeves together separated by steeks for the length of the sleeves, then for the sleeve caps. Once they were cut, I seamed up the sleeve seams. I could have knit them separately, but it ensured they were perfectly matched and I didn’t have to weave in any ends.

I reinforced the steeks with sturdy hand stitches prior to cutting. This wasn’t really necessary with the wool I was using, as it’s grabby enough not to ravel, however it leaves a very neat and tidy edge inside. I didn’t even bother to tack down my steeks. (Incidentally, these are all topics I’ll cover in the long term in Colorwork: 101! But I’ll be writing up more posts about basics, first. I did post a number of photos with explanations on my Ravelry project page, if you’d like to see more.)

The lumpy bits you see at the top of the shoulder in the below photo is from the end of the sleeve cap steek and the gathering of the top of the cap. This actually worked a little bit like sewing in a shoulder pad, so I didn’t need to make any!

I’m just in love with this cardigan. The fit is perfect and I love the design and colors. I’ve worn it several times since I finished it, and I only finished it last Monday. Even though I have a million other projects planned, it makes me want to run right out and knit one just like it, but with another colorwork chart. I had a couple of people yesterday on Ravelry say it reminded them of the 1940s Shetland fair isle cardigan that knitwear designer Kate Davies posted about on her blog, which is a huge compliment to me.

I hope my sweater looks as good in 70 years as a real hand-knit one from the 1940s does now!

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Filed Under: Knitting, Vintage Wardrobe Tagged With: finished projects, vintage knitting, vintage knitting patterns

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. TheBlackPinafore says

    November 28, 2011 at 5:27 pm

    Oh, Tasha is amazing what you can achieve, this cardigan is really nice ….. I love the detail of the sleeve ….. I’m glad to see often in your posts I made the skirt Pinafore.

    Reply
  2. zilredloh says

    November 28, 2011 at 5:27 pm

    It’s amazing! I love the colors you’ve chosen for it; I bet it would match with nearly everything in one’s closet.

    I can’t believe how fast you’re able to knit such intricate patterns; I’m completely blown away.

    Reply
  3. Moe says

    November 28, 2011 at 5:29 pm

    Lovely indeed! I really love the colors and pattern of this one. It really does look like an original. I love your new hair cut as well. The set is adorable.

    Reply
  4. Rachel Proffitt says

    November 28, 2011 at 5:36 pm

    Wow- Tasha, that REALLY came out very nicely! You are right about the colours too- fabulous! It will certainly brighten up any cold day you wear it for 🙂
    How much yarn did it eventually take you?

    Reply
  5. Mariya says

    November 28, 2011 at 5:42 pm

    wow. the cardigan is sooo beautiful.

    Reply
  6. snippa says

    November 28, 2011 at 5:42 pm

    Truly impressive work. Beautiful.

    Reply
  7. KibitzKnitz says

    November 28, 2011 at 5:43 pm

    Just Beautiful!! Great Job!

    Reply
  8. Miss Crayola Creepy says

    November 28, 2011 at 5:44 pm

    I have trouble knitting even one stitch, so I am in awe of you and your sweater! 🙂

    Reply
  9. Gail says

    November 28, 2011 at 5:49 pm

    You did an amazing job, Tasha! It is absolutely gorgeous!

    Reply
  10. Ghislaine says

    November 28, 2011 at 6:07 pm

    Perfect! Congratulations!

    Reply
  11. Annabelle says

    November 28, 2011 at 6:24 pm

    Tasha, this is gorgeous! What a great piece to have in your wardrobe – I am sure you will continue to be proud of it for years to come.

    Reply
  12. lladybird says

    November 28, 2011 at 6:25 pm

    that is GORGEOUS! i don’t even have anything else to say… i’m just in awe over here 🙂

    Reply
  13. strugglesewsastraightseam says

    November 28, 2011 at 6:45 pm

    Holy. Awesomesauce. This is amazing! I bow to your mad knitting skills, I really do. I just started knitting and the idea of making any kind of sweater at all fills me with glee/terror. This is unbearably impressive and so beautiful! Well done.

    Reply
  14. Kathy says

    November 28, 2011 at 6:55 pm

    *Falls over* Amazing knit work!

    Reply
  15. Lois Leigh-Ann says

    November 28, 2011 at 7:13 pm

    your knitting is always so inspiring! the colours are wonderful together.

    Reply
  16. Andi says

    November 28, 2011 at 7:16 pm

    It’s beautiful! I love how cheerful the colors are and the modifications you made are quite impressive. It’s definitely a FO to be proud of.

    Reply
  17. Laurence says

    November 28, 2011 at 7:31 pm

    Waouhhhh!!!!! Amazing, what a great work!!!!

    Reply
  18. Andrea says

    November 28, 2011 at 7:50 pm

    WOW! Your cardi is gorgeous!!! I’m so impressed with your speed, too.

    Reply
  19. Christi says

    November 28, 2011 at 7:55 pm

    Oh god this is to die for. Do you sell these? Because I would buy one instantly. I want to learn to knit but I don’t think I’d ever be able to do this. Seriously so beautiful.

    Reply
  20. ConstantlyAlice says

    November 28, 2011 at 7:57 pm

    Tasha, this is absolutely stunning. The colors are amazing, the style is beautiful, just gorgeous!

    Reply
  21. Straight Talking Mama! says

    November 28, 2011 at 8:05 pm

    You are so clever that looks gorgeous! If it’s any consolation I haven’t blogged like a demon, in fact I haven’t blogged eek!

    Reply
  22. Kestrel says

    November 28, 2011 at 8:45 pm

    Tasha, this is just amazing! You’re so clever to be able to knit something so beautiful and NEAT 🙂 Definitely an heirloom.

    Reply
  23. kristenmakes says

    November 28, 2011 at 9:07 pm

    Wow, that is so beautiful. I am so in love with this.

    Reply
  24. LandGirl1980 says

    November 28, 2011 at 9:15 pm

    You lovely, inspirational clever clogs!!! This is, seriously, the BEST home made thing I think I have EVER seen.

    Reply
  25. Rhia says

    November 28, 2011 at 9:20 pm

    OH-MY-GOODNESS! That cardi looks so lovely. I wish I had the same patience than you do. I have been dreaming to knit 30’s or 40’s style cardigan (not to mention the wool-silk knitted cami knickers for winter I’m also dreaming about) but I have trouble even finishing smaller knitting projects that I got in-the-making.

    Reply
  26. Lisa says

    November 28, 2011 at 10:38 pm

    Auuuugh! You make it looks so easy! Truly gorgeous pattern and I think you were right to keep the colors, they ‘re so cute! Plus I love the little gathered caps at the shoulders.
    Great work.

    Reply
  27. superheidi says

    November 28, 2011 at 10:58 pm

    Bowing deeply… 🙂

    Reply
  28. Lindsey says

    November 28, 2011 at 11:13 pm

    I am speechless! This is absolutely amazing!!! I love the colors and style. It’s hard to believe someone can knit this by hand.

    Reply
  29. opportunityknits says

    November 29, 2011 at 4:38 am

    It is so pretty, beautifully finished and fits so well. All the work you took to chart the pattern paid off, it is perfect! 🙂

    Reply
  30. Ellen says

    November 29, 2011 at 4:46 am

    The cardigan looks amazing!
    I also love that you knitted the sleeves together – I have been wanting to knit a stranded cardigan and it looks like such a clever way to do it.

    Reply
  31. noekkeon says

    November 29, 2011 at 12:26 pm

    What an amazing knit! I love it. And you look so pretty in it, the colors are great for you.

    Reply
  32. Olivia says

    November 29, 2011 at 1:24 pm

    Oh my!! That cardigan truly is fantastic. Your’e such an amazing knitter! Wonderful and truly beautiful cardi. I understand that you wear it a lot!

    Reply
  33. Tallulah May Vintage Socialite. says

    November 29, 2011 at 2:56 pm

    Oh my you are so talented, just love the cardigan only wish i could knit like you, maybe one day….

    Reply
  34. rachel sew-n-sew says

    November 29, 2011 at 4:04 pm

    Wow – you are an exceptionally talented lady!

    Reply
  35. Roobeedoo says

    November 29, 2011 at 4:14 pm

    Oh lordy lordy – that’s a fabulous cardigan! Love it!

    Reply
  36. vintage_kitten says

    November 29, 2011 at 4:54 pm

    That is so beautiful.I can’t quit looking at it.The detail is amazing.And I just adore the shoulders.great job.xx

    Reply
  37. Carla says

    November 30, 2011 at 1:32 am

    Oh it turned out fantastic, Tasha! I love that you kept the original color scheme, and the mods you used turned out perfectly. I can’t wait to learn how to do that in the course! =D

    Reply
  38. Second Hand Rose says

    November 30, 2011 at 1:48 pm

    Wow it looks amazing!! It takes colour work to another level! You have made it so well and put it together beautifully. I love the shoulders. I’ve never heard of the steek thing before. Can you please check out my colourwork, its a few posts down in my blog but I would love to know what you think!! Your hair looks gorgeous too!! XxxX http://thesecondhandrose.blogspot.com/

    Reply
  39. Mademoiselle Coco says

    November 30, 2011 at 8:52 pm

    This is beautiful !! I am really impressed ! 🙂

    Reply
  40. Miss Magpie says

    November 30, 2011 at 10:13 pm

    I am in utter awe, what a beautiful, beautiful cardigan. You are too clever for words!

    Reply
  41. Franca says

    December 2, 2011 at 10:38 am

    Fabulosity!

    Reply
  42. sewvintage says

    December 7, 2011 at 12:48 pm

    Everything I could say here, has already been said by others, so I cannot add anything creative here. I am very very impressed by your knitting skills (again) and I’ll have to practise stranded knitting A LOT if I ever want to come close to your league.
    You can checkout my first pathetic attempt at stranded knitting where I am trying to apply all your tipps in my Ravelry project (http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Couturette/1940s-style-sweater). I will make steeks for the armholes too since stranded purling just ist too awkward.

    Reply
  43. Andi B. Goode says

    December 9, 2011 at 2:06 am

    Oh gosh, it’s so beautiful! Wow. One of my goals next year is to finally challenge myself with my knitting, instead of just knitting very plain things – even if it’s just starting with knitting up swatches of things that are more complicated. Your knitting is definitely a big inspiration for that goal!
    -Andi x

    Reply
  44. Casey says

    December 9, 2011 at 2:23 pm

    My goodness. I’m speechless!!! It’s gorgeous, Tasha! I love that you kept a similar color scheme to the original; it really pops. Now I really need to get my ducks in a row and give multi-colored knitting a whirl! 😉

    Reply
  45. Cécily Devil says

    December 13, 2011 at 11:55 pm

    Wow it’s so beautiful! What a great job 🙂

    Reply
  46. allison b-t says

    December 18, 2011 at 12:23 am

    that sweater is just gorgeous!! i love the colors and you did an amazing job.

    Reply
  47. Person hinter den Worten says

    December 26, 2011 at 9:46 am

    Wow, just wow! How long did it take you to finish this?

    Reply
  48. NinaK says

    January 1, 2012 at 12:10 pm

    So fab! Neat that you did steeks for shaped garment. Always wanted to do it. My one attempt at vintage snowflake sweaters (from Nomis Snowtime Sweaters) was a failure because of having to purl back. But I never wanted to do the shapeless drop-shoulder look exclusively.

    Reply
  49. KatieLynne says

    January 2, 2012 at 11:41 pm

    This is jaw-dropping gorgeous! This just looks so dreamy on you…your craftswomanship is incredible!

    Reply
  50. Jenn Dixon says

    August 21, 2013 at 7:51 pm

    This is a well-polished and well-made piece. Fantastic work!

    Reply
  51. Cielo says

    May 4, 2014 at 10:22 pm

    Ok this sweater is fly!

    I’m a 40’s vintage lover also and recently learned how to sew which makes building a wardrobe a lot easier.

    This sweater; I want one, want to make one, gotta have one.
    I don’t know how to knit (other than a basic stitch) so I know something like this outta my league. And I’ve been searching for that exact silhouette, rockin puffin sleeve and all, but everything is too cheap or too pricey.

    How did you learn to knit like that Tasha?

    Reply

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Welcome! If you’re into vintage style, knitting, sewing, and general craftiness, well then grab your favorite drink because you’re in the right place! I’m Tasha. Read more...

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